Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater & northern Serengeti

After a wonderful visit to Lewa Downs, Ninian and our guests headed to Tanzania.

Their first stop was Lake Manyara for a night before driving to the world-famous Ngorongoro Crater, ( a UNESCO World Heritage site)  at the eastern edge of the Serengeti in northern Tanzania.

The crater is part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which covers more than 3 100 square miles of wilderness. Sheltered by the crater walls, the forests, grasslands, fresh springs and a large soda lake offer a wildlife haven.  They also visited nearby Olduvai  (Oldupai) Gorge (which was excavated by Lara’s grandparents, Louis and Mary Leakey in the mid-1950s). Based on fossil evidence found at Olduvai, it is known that various hominid species have occupied the area for 3 million years.

Next stop the northern Serengeti where they witnessed a spectacular river crossing



The plains were dotted with  tens of thousands of wildebeest.

Their final stop before heading to Rwanda was  Singita Grumeti Reserves to stay at Sasakwa Lodge.

Image courtesy of Singita Grumeti Reserve.

One of three exclusive properties on  the Grumeti Reserves 340,000 acres private concession in the Serengeti. Here they  were lucky enough to get a wonderful view of a mother leopard and her two cubs.

Lewa Downs

Next stop Lewa Downs Conservancy to stay at Lewa Wilderness.

The wildlife on the conservancy is spectacular, there are over 70 species of mammal living here and over 400 birds species.


The conservancy is also home  to the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary run by Anna Mertz, they protect a growing black and white rhino population.


Shaba & Buffalo Springs

Northern Kenya is a wild and magical place, with dramatic landscapes. We often camp in Shaba on a lovely spring called Funan or Buffalo Springs. On this safari Ninian and our guests were staying at Joys Camp.

The Uaso Nyiro River is the main source of water for wildlife in the area and provides some of the most stunning scenery

Although small by East African standards, it is home to many of the plant and animal communities typical of northern Kenya.

Because of permanent water this area is home to species such as buffalo, impala, waterbuck, as well as those adapted to semi-desert conditions such as gerenuk, oryx and Grevy’s zebra, many of which are endemic to this area

Striped Hyena in Shaba


Ninian has just spent three nights in Shaba at Joys camp with our guests. A highlight of their stay were these  striped hyenas.

Nocturnal omnivores,  the striped Hyena is a rare sight on safari and its considered a special treat to see one, but two is very special indeed.

Aberdare moorland flowers

Gladioli on the Honi River

The high moorlands of the Aberdare range  are dotted with rosettes of thistle, tussock grass, lobelia and giant heather bearded with moss and delicately landscaped gardens. Wild flowers at this time of year are abundant; red-hot pokers burn brightly above their stems, gladioli, daisies and everlastings inject splashes of red, pink, purple, yellow and orange into the dark green heath. Read more at the Lowis & Leakey Bush Telegraph

Vitelline Masked Weavers

Viteliline masked weaver nest building, Masai Mara

With the Mara green from recent rain these Vitelline Masked Weavers have been busy displaying and building their nests. Early this morning we came across a tree with dozens of nests being built. The giant accacia was alive with very raucous busy males, golden yellow in the morning light.

Chui. The leopard of Big Cat fame.

Chui in 2009

Chui photographed in 2009

The other evening sitting around the campfire at Rekero Camp, Ninian showed Jackson Looseyia photos of a male Leopard that he had seen in the Mara conservancy last October and Jackson confirmed suspicions that it is the same leopard that Ninian had photographed on the Rongai in 2006 . Chui was one of the stars of the Big Cat Diary series, whose disappearance had been a bit of a mystery!

This was Chui in 2006

Jackson was a presenter on Big Cat Live and followed the leopards in the Mara that soon became known as Jacksons Five. You can keep up to date on the stars of the Big Cat Diary series on Jacksons blog at www.jacksonlooseyia.blogspot.com.

“Bahati” the lucky Eland


Meet Bahati (swahili for Lucky) a young Eland who was rescued by rangers in the Mara Conservancy. Bahati now lives with the rangers and is clearly very curious about the contents of Ninian’s car!eland is the world’s biggest antelope, tawny-colored with twisted horns they become gray or bluish-gray as they get older with some of the  oldest animals becoming almost black. They migrate in large herds and keep their young in nursery groups. In African Rock Art the animal that is most frequently depicted is the Eland, even today these majestic beasts still play an important role  in the mythology of some southern African tribes.

Solar Eclipse

The final stages of the Eclipse

Just after 8 am on January 15th the skies suddenly darkened and the birds began to sing as the annular eclipse of the sun took place. We very lucky  as the thick bank of cloud hat had been hanging over Nairobi cleared just long enough to give us the most incredible view through our very high tech goggles ( a piece of cardboard with two layers of exposed black and white film taped across an opening!). This was a particularly special annual eclipse as it was the longest one of the millennium and there won’t be another as long until December 23 3043!

Blue skies and golden grass

The Mara Savannah

The Mara is best known for it wildlife, but its more than that. Its about sunlight and shadow, rich contrast, endless blue skies, seas of golden grass studded with statuesque trees. The grass in the Mara is like an ocean.  Evelyn Ames wrote in a Glimpse of Eden “…like the wild oats on California hills but deeper, waving in the wind, brushed with delicate strokes of buff and rose and yellow-green yet predominantly lion-blond.”